Wardrobe Wednesday: Laurel

I shared with you the muslin I made for Laurel.  I also shared the double-fold bias tape I made.  I couldn't leave out the finished Laurel made from a light weight denim.

This post is mostly detail shots, since Colette patterns are about the details.

This is the sleeve hem.  I would do this a little differently if I was to do it again, but for a first try it came out okay.

The should seam could have been a little smoother.  I don't mind those little puckers though.

The collar finish came out almost as good as the sleeve finish.

The bottom hem came out pretty nicely considering I think it was the first time I used the blind hem on my machine.  Usually when I do a blind hem I do it by hand.  I'm not kidding.

The finished dress doesn't have a bunch of shape on my dress form.  This is the back.  I did not include back darts and there is no back seam.  This dress is a pull-over.  Just a small variation from the pattern as written.  I figure if I need shape I can add a belt.

Here it is, all finished.  Simple but well-made.  I will have to think about this one before I make another.  I like the simplicity of the pattern but I question how much wear I will get out of it.  Maybe I should shorten to a shirt length, or shorten more and change the lower half.  I'm still thinking about the options and Laurel does give you a great jumping off point.

Tuesday Tool Tip: Bias Tape Maker

I talked about making a muslin for Colette - Laurel on Sunday.  Today I'm going to tell you about my adventure with bias tape.

I've had these Clover Bias Tape Makers in my collection of stuff for years.  I don't even remember where or when I got them.  I figured I should give it a try since that is the method recommended for the finish on the collar and sleeves of Laurel.

The first thing I did was go read the continuous bias tape tutorial from Colette.  Then, I read the directions in their Laurel Extras booklet (free to download).  I referred to both a couple times while making my cuts.  I got it sorted, and got to work.  The extras booklet has a great chart to help you figure out how big a square you need to cut to make a certain length of tape.  My square was 13" by 13" and I had more than enough to make bias binding for my dress.  I have a bunch left over, too.

I've seen this method a few times, but this is the first time I've tried it.  My tape wasn't perfect, but it was pretty neat to make it myself.  I discovered that the downside to marking with the Frixion pen is that I can't really press the second seam until after I cut the strip.  Not a disaster, just a consideration.  The marking tool you use isn't that important since it is the cutting line and will be hidden inside the binding.

Here is my cut and ready to go strip.  Time to get to pressing.

It may be me, but I almost always end up with slightly steamed fingers when doing this kind of stuff.

I pressed and steamed my fingers until I had around eight yards of 1/4" bias binding (that's from two 13" by 13" squares of fabric).  I think the scale of this fabric is almost too big for the binding.  Not a bad thing, just something to take into consideration.  Smaller prints do work better at this scale.

Have you rediscovered (or discovered) a tool in your sewing room?  I'd love to hear about it.

Colette Pattern: Laurel

It isn't often (something like once or twice a year) that I decide to sew clothing.  I started sewing as a garment sewer and have since moved on to primarily quilts.  I try to sew every day.  I don't think I could wear that many clothes but I can use or gift that many quilts.  I decided it was time to make a simple tunic.

I poked around the internet once I made that decision and found all these great sewers had made one (some as long as a year or more ago) and I knew it would be the best way to break my garment sewing fast.

• Ginger Makes created a spectacular sleeveless Laurel.
• Noodle-head is so much braver than I am.  She included the back darts and the zipper.
• Very Shannon's version is perfect!
• Idle Fancy has another sleeveless version that pairs beautifully with a cardigan.

I've had this pattern from Colette for a while.  I finally broke it out.  Laurel is a great pattern if you want to try your hand at garment sewing but aren't comfortable with some of the details (like facings) that often entails.  All the edges have bias tape finishes except for the bottom hem.  This dress has so many great things you can do with it.  Colette even has a free booklet of extras that show you just a few of the ways you can change this to make it your own.

Step one was to trace the pattern onto my super graph paper.  (You can find similar paper at some of the office supply stores.  This pad is from Staples but we've had it in the house for years and years.  You can also get a more durable product for making pattern copies or modifications to existing patterns from Pellon Tru-Grid.)

Step two was to make a muslin.  Did I mention it's been a while since I did any garment sewing?  I'm certain my size has changed in the last year or so.  My pants have told me so.  I'm not entirely sure how I feel about those front darts.  They seem low to me.  (I suppose I shouldn't complain about that.)  This muslin (a test or fitting garment) is made out of the last of the 120" wide unbleached muslin (cotton fabric of plain weave) I purchased years ago.  I'm sure I purchased it to back quilts (I don't do that any more, I like a sturdier product for quilt backings) and to make fitting garments.

The sewing on this is really super simple.  I decided to leave out the back darts and make the back one piece.  I didn't want to have to deal with a zipper.  This is where I tested the fit to make sure I could get it on over my head.  I can sew a zipper.  I've just come to associate a zipper in a dress with fancy.  I don't want a fancy dress.  I just want something comfortable to wear around.

Sleeves attached and another test fit.  This is where I left the muslin.  I decided it fit well enough and I was comfortable with the fit and technique to cut some fabric and get stitching.  The biggest change will be going from a regular straight stitch (easier to rip when making a muslin) to the over-lock machine for the real thing.  Oh, and the bias binding for the sleeves and the collar.  more about that on Tuesday.  I feel the hem might be too short, but I think I'll have to finish the real one to get a better idea about that.  I can easily add a band to the bottom if I have to.  So far I think it is going great!