Our dining room table is where we eat breakfast almost every morning and dinner almost every evening.
It is just the right size for four people to join in a board or card game and sometimes those games can push the limits of the surface. In 2012 we used some parts from IKEA to make a gaming surface to help increase the capabilities of that table. If you're wondering why we don't just put the expansion leaf in the table I want to point out this is a second-hand table and we have no recollection if it came with a leaf, and if it did, we have no idea where that leaf might be now. The top measures approximately 42" wide by 47" long. We decided it was time to really expand the surface to allow for more people to join us at that table.
After taking a couple measurements, and drawing a couple rectangles on a piece of graph paper, we stopped by the home improvement warehouse to pick up the hardware I figured we would need and found everything we needed on the shelves. The original plan included a tabletop from IKEA, so the plan changed during the shopping. Not that this is a problem. This project requires a couple power tools including a drill and a saw of some type. We also used measuring tape, pen for marking, screwdriver, saw horses, extension cord, safety glasses, dust mask, an electric sander, and some shop rags.
We decided to go big with this project. I'll go over the details of how w put together a top that fits over the top of our existing table. We used four brackets to hold the panels together. These are on the underside outside the perimeter of the frame that goes around the top of the table. We don't have a carpenter's square, so I grabbed one of my quilting rulers to make sure the brackets were lined up on the join.
As you can see. I made a small error when I measured for the inner brackets. Other than a dozen holes on the underside I didn't need, it wasn't an issue. We built a frame on the underside of the top to keep the top centered on the table.
The rest of the frame was added to fully surround the table top to prevent the new tabletop from sliding around. Screws were placed every 6" so it is a little overkill. Then we moved the brackets outside the perimeter of that frame. This will prevent the brackets or screws from damaging the top of the table.
We turned it over to make sure it fit over the table top. It was a close thing, but with the weight of the top I don't think it will be an issue. The weight of the top and the general prevalence of adult behavior in my house means it is safe. I don't think I would recommend this method to families with toddlers or other young people that climb on the furniture in an attempt to visit the emergency room several times before their 12th birthday.
We put the gaming top in the center and it is so much better for all sorts of games. Although, now we need about six more chairs. We tested it out with our two board game friends. We had plenty of room for Time Stories and dinner on the new table.
3 stain-grade wood panels 16" by 96" by 3/4"- $30.97 each
8 1-3/8" by 6" metal straps - $1.88 each
3 six-foot lengths of 1" by 2" lumber - $1.07 each
#6 x 5/8" screws - for attaching the metal straps- $4.58
#10 x 1-1/4" screws - for attaching the frame on the underside - $5.58
Howard's Feed-n-Wax - $7.98
We bought some wood glue, but didn't end up using it on this project.
Showing posts with label ikea hack. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ikea hack. Show all posts
Friday, August 18, 2017
Monday, September 5, 2016
IKEA Hack: Standing Sewing Table
Okay, there isn't much hack to this one, but it might have gotten your attention.
I have wanted one of these high tables for my hand-crank machine for a while. This table was at IKEA with the last chance mark down so I grabbed it even that wasn't what we went to IKEA for.
I popped open the box and wasn't intimidated.
The directions encouraged me to find a friend. This project requires two peeps! I decided to go it alone. It's what introverts are good at.
In the end, I didn't need a second peep to complete the project. The only problem I had was due to a hole drilled not quite straight. I worked around that by loosening up some other screws until I could get the troublesome one threaded. Overall, a good project. As you can see, I'm a super-fan of IKEA storage.
I have wanted one of these high tables for my hand-crank machine for a while. This table was at IKEA with the last chance mark down so I grabbed it even that wasn't what we went to IKEA for.
I popped open the box and wasn't intimidated.
The directions encouraged me to find a friend. This project requires two peeps! I decided to go it alone. It's what introverts are good at.
In the end, I didn't need a second peep to complete the project. The only problem I had was due to a hole drilled not quite straight. I worked around that by loosening up some other screws until I could get the troublesome one threaded. Overall, a good project. As you can see, I'm a super-fan of IKEA storage.
Wednesday, August 17, 2016
No, I won't hem your curtains
We've lived in this house for over a year. We put up enough window treatments to ensure modesty and privacy. But we hadn't done anything fancy. Not that this project is going to be fancy. I don't do fancy. We picked up some reasonably priced curtain panels at IKEA.
That's where the sewing machine comes in. We chose these based on price and opaqueness. There were thicker curtains, but the price point was higher. It also meant that they were about 20 inches too long. While my Darling Husband was more than happy to hang them as they were, I was less than impressed with 20 inches of curtain on the floor. Likely picking up a lifetime of dog fur.
After trimming and hemming the curtains I would have been left with five panels worth of 20" of curtain. I suppose I could have made tote bags, but I figured adding that bit to the top of the panel would keep the room a little darker (the real goal of this window treatment is to prevent glare on the television) and I wouldn't be left with scraps. I simply folded under about 1/4 inch on that raw edge and top stitched it below the seam at the top. It sure isn't fancy, but it isn't wasteful, either.
About two hours later I had my five panels finished. They block out the light nicely and look pretty good while doing it, too. After I was finished, I decided that I would evaluate the value of this work at $50/panel. This is where I tell you again about the wonderful articles you can find on Sam Hunter's blog and learn more about the We Are $ew Worth It way of thinking.
I would love to teach you how to use a sewing machine and how to hem your own curtains. No, I won't hem them for you.
That's where the sewing machine comes in. We chose these based on price and opaqueness. There were thicker curtains, but the price point was higher. It also meant that they were about 20 inches too long. While my Darling Husband was more than happy to hang them as they were, I was less than impressed with 20 inches of curtain on the floor. Likely picking up a lifetime of dog fur.
After trimming and hemming the curtains I would have been left with five panels worth of 20" of curtain. I suppose I could have made tote bags, but I figured adding that bit to the top of the panel would keep the room a little darker (the real goal of this window treatment is to prevent glare on the television) and I wouldn't be left with scraps. I simply folded under about 1/4 inch on that raw edge and top stitched it below the seam at the top. It sure isn't fancy, but it isn't wasteful, either.
About two hours later I had my five panels finished. They block out the light nicely and look pretty good while doing it, too. After I was finished, I decided that I would evaluate the value of this work at $50/panel. This is where I tell you again about the wonderful articles you can find on Sam Hunter's blog and learn more about the We Are $ew Worth It way of thinking.
I would love to teach you how to use a sewing machine and how to hem your own curtains. No, I won't hem them for you.
Thursday, May 15, 2014
Pressing Station, Part Two
In Part Two we will put together the base for the ironing station. This sounds much fancier than it is. Basically, it is just a shelving unit. Check out Part One first!
This part of the project is brought to you by IKEA. There was some excitement that the EXPIDIT shelving units from IKEA were no longer being carried. Don't worry, they have been replaced with KALLAX. I have no idea what the difference is, other than colors. Not all the colors have changed; white is still there. One KALLAX, or EXPIDIT, in color of choice in the four squares size.
IKEA was kind enough to supply the instructions for this one, so I won't drag you through it. They do recommend two peeps (this is short for people). My second peep's job is to not squish my fingers during assembly. You will also need a set of four legs. I used CAPITA legs. I couldn't find any in the store in the 6" size, so I went with the 8" size. I have a similar cabinet near where I put my ironing board, so this added height is actually a good thing. Strictly speaking, you don't need the legs, but if you want your pressing station to be around counter height (I have found that this is perfect for me, anything lower makes my back hurt), and be adjustable, I recommend the legs. They are really only slightly adjustable (about 1/2"), perfect for those of us with crooked floors.
I picked the bottom of this cabinet by the fact that I had a small scratch on this end. I marked for each leg and Darling Husband did the drilling of pilot holes.
You don't have to have them, but I think they make the process go so much more smoothly. That one on the corner is kind of close to the assembly screw. I took this into account when I did my marking. Feel free to move those legs anywhere you like as long as they provide a stable platform for the cabinet.
Screw in your brackets. This is where another set of hands, or DH with a drill with the screwdriver attachment, comes in handy. Just don't over-tighten as these are easy to strip out since the cabinet is just particle board under that laminate.
Assemble the legs. Don't over tighten, in case you want to adjust them once you get the cabinet set up. Add the felt pads that came with the KALLAX unit if you wish. I use them to protect my flooring, not because I need to move the completed unit around.
Materials List for Part Two
KALLAX shelving unit in four-block size
CAPITA legs, set of four
Tools: Cordless drill, screwdriver, tiny off-set hex wrench that comes with the KALLAX (we have a collection of these)
Only one more part and this pressing station will be in business.
Thursday, May 8, 2014
Pressing Station, Part One
A week or so ago I took down my ironing board and built a pressing station. What is a pressing station? It is basically just a really big ironing board. Way cooler, though! I will attempt to capture my construction process. This will not be completed in one post, there are just too many pictures. Materials list is at the end of the post.
Step one: Cut some batting. I buy Warn & Natural by the roll. I'm considering buying other brands, but until this roll is gone I'm going to keep on using it. I used three layers of batting. You'll need three pieces big enough to cover your pressing board. My board is 24" by 48" and was purchased at a super warehouse hardware store. You want your batting to be several inches longer and wider than your board.
See how I have at least four inches of batting all the way around? Trim the inner two layers at the corners to reduce bulk in the corners.
Start on the corners by folding the corner of the batting towards the corner of the board.
Then fold again and staple in place. I had some trouble with my staples not being flush, so I used my hammer to slightly tap them in. Too much force and you'll just bend over the staple instead of driving it into the board.
Repeat on all four corners.
This is where your gift-wrapping skills may come in handy. An extra set of hands doesn't hurt, either. Fold over the edges, pulling tightly to make sure you don't leave any wrinkles on the top (in these pictures the top is down, towards the table-top).
I tried to fold in the corners as neatly as possible. Don't worry, this is the underside, no one will see it. Just pull the batting tight as you go.
Some of the corners were neater than others.
Once you have all the edges stapled, I put staples about every four inches or so, go ahead and give them a tap with hammer if you think it really needs it.
Step one: Cut some batting. I buy Warn & Natural by the roll. I'm considering buying other brands, but until this roll is gone I'm going to keep on using it. I used three layers of batting. You'll need three pieces big enough to cover your pressing board. My board is 24" by 48" and was purchased at a super warehouse hardware store. You want your batting to be several inches longer and wider than your board.
See how I have at least four inches of batting all the way around? Trim the inner two layers at the corners to reduce bulk in the corners.
Start on the corners by folding the corner of the batting towards the corner of the board.
Then fold again and staple in place. I had some trouble with my staples not being flush, so I used my hammer to slightly tap them in. Too much force and you'll just bend over the staple instead of driving it into the board.
Repeat on all four corners.
This is where your gift-wrapping skills may come in handy. An extra set of hands doesn't hurt, either. Fold over the edges, pulling tightly to make sure you don't leave any wrinkles on the top (in these pictures the top is down, towards the table-top).
I tried to fold in the corners as neatly as possible. Don't worry, this is the underside, no one will see it. Just pull the batting tight as you go.
Some of the corners were neater than others.
Once you have all the edges stapled, I put staples about every four inches or so, go ahead and give them a tap with hammer if you think it really needs it.
Next, lay down the pressed cotton canvas. I purchased one yard of cotton canvas for this project. Pressing before this is important if you want a nice smooth top to your pressing surface. I didn't get every crease out of my fabric, but it is better than it would have been without the pressing. Sure, you can pull those creases out, but you could just spend a couple minutes pressing.
Put the batting-covered board onto the canvas, right-side down. Since the width of fabric runs along the longest length of the board, you can really pull out some creases. Don't overdo, it but you can make sure it is tight.
Staple the canvas as you stapled the batting. Start with the corners and tackle the sides after the corners are tacked down.
I folded over the point of the corners before stapling.
I finger-pressed about 1" along the raw edges before pulling over the batting and stapling down. I didn't have much extra fabric, so this small amount of turn over is about all I could afford.
I put staples on each end and in the middle before filling in along the edge, tugging as I went to keep the top smooth.
Again, tug the fabric as tight as you can get it. This is where another set of hands really comes in handy.
Like I said, the underside doesn't have to be perfect. There might be some extra staples in there, but I don't mind.
Ta-da! The completed top. I see a little bit where I could have smoothed out the fabric a little better. I don't think it will be a problem, though. At more than twice the size of my regular ironing board, my pressing just improved and I haven't built the rest of it.
Materials for part one
1/2" plywood, 24" by 48", this is a pre-cut size you can get from a warehouse hardware store
1/4" staples
staple gun than can use 1/4" staples
Warm & Natural batting, 1.5 yards of 90" wide batting
1 yard of cotton canvas
Next time we will build the base for this monster.
Part Two.
I folded over the point of the corners before stapling.
I finger-pressed about 1" along the raw edges before pulling over the batting and stapling down. I didn't have much extra fabric, so this small amount of turn over is about all I could afford.
I put staples on each end and in the middle before filling in along the edge, tugging as I went to keep the top smooth.
Again, tug the fabric as tight as you can get it. This is where another set of hands really comes in handy.
Like I said, the underside doesn't have to be perfect. There might be some extra staples in there, but I don't mind.
Ta-da! The completed top. I see a little bit where I could have smoothed out the fabric a little better. I don't think it will be a problem, though. At more than twice the size of my regular ironing board, my pressing just improved and I haven't built the rest of it.
Materials for part one
1/2" plywood, 24" by 48", this is a pre-cut size you can get from a warehouse hardware store
1/4" staples
staple gun than can use 1/4" staples
Warm & Natural batting, 1.5 yards of 90" wide batting
1 yard of cotton canvas
Next time we will build the base for this monster.
Part Two.
Monday, May 27, 2013
Storage Upgrade
This is pretty much my level of organization. Stack things up until they fall over. Then, curse at it, organize it and wait for it to fall over again. It was time for an improvement. Some quick measuring and a trip to IKEA got us everything we needed.
First, I put together another shelving unit.
Then, a smaller one to go on top. Due to my sewing suite being in the upstairs of a cape, I'm a little restricted when it comes to building anything tall. It's all got to fit under the roof.
Then, I did some sorting and folding and organizing. After about two hours of this, I had finished.
Well, as finished as I'll ever be. Look at all those quilts waiting to be made!
First, I put together another shelving unit.
Then, a smaller one to go on top. Due to my sewing suite being in the upstairs of a cape, I'm a little restricted when it comes to building anything tall. It's all got to fit under the roof.
Then, I did some sorting and folding and organizing. After about two hours of this, I had finished.
Well, as finished as I'll ever be. Look at all those quilts waiting to be made!
Monday, May 6, 2013
Cutting Table Upgrade
Today Darling Husband and I trekked out to IKEA to pick up the parts to upgrade my cutting table. It worked great as a cutting table, but I felt like there was so much space just being wasted.
This project requires two peeps to complete. DH was kind enough to be my second peep for the project. He also helped me carry the heavy boxes from the car.
Here is the old cutting table (I posted about this back in 2011). He'd seen this IKEA hack on the IKEA Hackers site and thought it might be modified to fit my needs. I took some measurements and did some math to make sure it would work for my workflow and comfort. I like a cutting surface at around 36 inches high. This is about what most kitchen counters are in height and is a good working height to help me avoid back pain resulting from hours of cutting.
We picked up the pictured pieces from IKEA to complete the upgrade. I'm not going to give a step-by-step, just some pictures of the major assembly points.
First, we assembled the EXPEDIT bookcases. The upside is that DH didn't smoosh my fingers during any of the assembly. Which resulted in at least 50% less cursing than past IKEA projects.
Then, we attached six 4" CAPITA legs to each bookcase and stuck the little fuzzy feet that came with the bookcases to each of them. If you plan on doing something like this, make sure you bring your drill. Pilot holes are must for this kind of thing. Trying to screw through that laminate layer will not make you happy camper.
Two peeps were also required to turn the shelf units over onto their little legs. We added some of that no-skid drawer liner to the tops of the shelving unit. I didn't want to screw the tabletop to the shelf units, so this will keep everything in place. I spaced them far enough apart that there is a small overhang on the outside edges.
Two peeps were required to put the top on without mishap. The top is actually made of two IKEA tabletops (LINNMON) held together with flat bracing screwed to the underside.
I don't want to fill up all those little shelves with bins, drawers or doors until I understand what I want to do with the space. I did pick up a couple bins, but I'll wait until the next time I go to IKEA for more, if I decide I want more.
I
took a couple panoramic shots of the room in an attempt to capture both
the amount of stuff in here as well as show how helpful this added storage space is.
This is the "before" picture. Mostly because it shows piles of stuff
all over the place. I'm generally an organized person. That means I
know what is in every one of those piles. (I know the panoramic is a little weird in a space this small. For reference, you're seeing two sides to this small space in one image.)
I
still have some work to do in the organization arena. At least I've
got a good start on it. I should quit fooling around with the furniture
and go back to sewing. Although, now I think I need another shelving
unit and some kind of storage that will be the base of my ironing station. Hmmm... I need to make some kind of plan.
This project requires two peeps to complete. DH was kind enough to be my second peep for the project. He also helped me carry the heavy boxes from the car.
Here is the old cutting table (I posted about this back in 2011). He'd seen this IKEA hack on the IKEA Hackers site and thought it might be modified to fit my needs. I took some measurements and did some math to make sure it would work for my workflow and comfort. I like a cutting surface at around 36 inches high. This is about what most kitchen counters are in height and is a good working height to help me avoid back pain resulting from hours of cutting.
We picked up the pictured pieces from IKEA to complete the upgrade. I'm not going to give a step-by-step, just some pictures of the major assembly points.
First, we assembled the EXPEDIT bookcases. The upside is that DH didn't smoosh my fingers during any of the assembly. Which resulted in at least 50% less cursing than past IKEA projects.
Then, we attached six 4" CAPITA legs to each bookcase and stuck the little fuzzy feet that came with the bookcases to each of them. If you plan on doing something like this, make sure you bring your drill. Pilot holes are must for this kind of thing. Trying to screw through that laminate layer will not make you happy camper.
Two peeps were also required to turn the shelf units over onto their little legs. We added some of that no-skid drawer liner to the tops of the shelving unit. I didn't want to screw the tabletop to the shelf units, so this will keep everything in place. I spaced them far enough apart that there is a small overhang on the outside edges.
Two peeps were required to put the top on without mishap. The top is actually made of two IKEA tabletops (LINNMON) held together with flat bracing screwed to the underside.
I don't want to fill up all those little shelves with bins, drawers or doors until I understand what I want to do with the space. I did pick up a couple bins, but I'll wait until the next time I go to IKEA for more, if I decide I want more.
I
did decide I wanted at least on drawer unit on the right-hand side.
This is where I'll keep my scissors and rotary cutter. The drawer below
is for pins, seam ripper and pencils for marking. I'm sure more junk
will find its way in there, but right now this is what it holds.
Here is the "after" picture. I've managed to tidy up a bunch of the
surfaces and even put up some idea boards. Everyone should have at
least one of these. A place to pin all kinds of things: scraps of
fabric, pictures from magazines or printed from the internet. Anything
that inspires is fair game.
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