Vintage Revival: Singer Stylist 457 Gear Replacement

Last year I wrote a couple blog posts about a Singer Stylist 457 that I picked up.  She isn't fancy, doesn't do any special stitches and isn't much to look at.

First I talked about the machine and then I talked about the cabinet.  Then I also talked about my sadness when the gear that drives the bobbin assembly was chewed up.

While making an order for some other parts for some vintage machines through a very helpful seller on Etsy called Old Sewing Machines, I found that he also had the gear I needed for this machine for a great price.  I added the gear to my order and did some research while I waited for my parts to arrive.

The belt on the underside is what drives the bobbin hook.  When the gear went, the machine wouldn't pick up the bobbin thread because the hook wasn't grabbing the needle thread.  I had shared an email or two with a commenter on my original post and was given a link to the procedure to change the gear and reset the timing.

Here is the best photo I could get of the damaged gear while it was still in the machine.  This photo is taken from the front of the machine through an access port.

Here are some of the remnants of the gear that I managed to rattle loose during replacement of the gear.

Somehow I lost the gear inside the machine and it got wedged inside but not near any moving bits.  I had to get a friend to come peer inside to find the darn thing for me.  But here it is after removal.  Since I had already installed the new gear I don't have a side-by-side comparison.  I did some more cleaning and oiling while I had the machine apart and it sews quite nicely now.  

I did some test stitching and while it could use some more minor adjustment, I'm really proud of the result.  For reference, the white thread is the bobbin thread and the pink is the needle thread.

Now that she is all put back together she is ready to go back in the cabinet and back into the travel trailer.  I'll let you know how the new gear works out.  So far I'm really pleased with the outcome and I'm so glad someone told me it was easy to do so I could get over my reluctance to trying to time a machine.

Have you stretched yourself lately and learned a new skill?

Singer Spartan - 1962

I decided to finish up the work on this darling little Singer Spartan.  (I think I spent more time getting that little slide plate onto the spring than I spent doing anything else.)

The only thing I hadn't done was remove the bobbin case and clean under it and the feed dogs.  I'm glad I didn't skip this step.  I found more a than a few dust bunnies had made their home under there.  I've learned so much about the 66/99 machines through my willingness to do a little bit of homework and to take things apart.  These machines are brilliantly designed.

Here is the serial number for this little Spartan.  According to ISMACS.com she is a 99K, from September 11, 1962.  She sews beautifully!

I picked this machine up locally through a Craig's List ad.  It was a great transaction for a wonderfully maintained machine.  I may have paid a bit of a premium on this one, but I got an amazing machine for an amazing price.  You couldn't get a comparable machine for $75 in a chain store.

The Spartans didn't come with lamps, so I had to add a stand lamp.  (I'll share more about the lamp next week.)  I sewed up all the blocks for clue #5 of Bonnie Hunter's Grand Illusion Mystery Quilt on this machine.  Every stitch was beautiful.

Don't think this 3/4 machine is light.  I haven't put her on a scale, but I will say she isn't light.  I've read on the internet that she weighs in around 26lbs.  I should go find my scale.

Do you have a vintage machine that you love?

Vintage Revival: Model 66 - The Bobbin Race Wick

What the heck is a race wick?

I'll admit that I didn't know until I read about it.  There is a little piece of red felt that sits in a spring on the side of the ejector mechanism on the Singer 66/99 machines.  This little piece of felt is oiled and keeps the bobbin race lubricated.  I think it is a really ingenious set up.  The down-side is that many people remove this little bit of fluff thinking it is just more lint built up in the bobbin area of the machine.

Removing the bobbin slide plate and the needle plate is easy.  The next step is to get the bobbin case out of the machine.  This seems really straightforward.  Just lift that little finger on the left and rotate the ejector mechanism to allow you to get the bobbin case out.  You don't have to remove the feed dog to do this but you may need to move the machine to get the hook to rotate to a better position so you can get it out.

I did have to remove the feed dogs to get the ejector mechanism out.  On the underside of the machine is the screw that holds the feed dog.  This will have to be adjusted when you put it back in.  I couldn't get the ejector mechanism out without removing the feed dog.

There is a set screw (not shown) on the underside of the machine that holds this mechanism in place.  You will have to loosen it to get this out and then back in again.  Here you can see the spool pin felt that I'm going to sacrifice for the race wick.

This machine has some surface rust and some gunky old oil.  I pulled loads of chunky bits of old fluff out of here as I worked.  I don't think any of the rust I did find will affect the machine for decades.  These machines were over-engineered to a point of beauty.

Removing the spring-screw thingy (I made that up) that holds the wick is easy.  Just unscrew it by hand.  It is much longer than you think when you first start to loosen it.

I cut the wick using the photos on this very helpful blog post from Color My World With Warmth. I made sure it was almost to the base of the spring/screw so I knew it wouldn't come out.

In this picture the wick is actually a little too long.  I trimmed it once I got it into the machine and saw how much too long it really was.

There it is back in the machine.  And the wick is just touching the race!  I may have to adjust (trim) it, but for right now I'm pleased.

It took some more maneuvering to get the bobbin case back in there, but I got it.  I really did surprise myself with how easy it was to get it out.  I'm glad I got some more of the gunky out of the hook assembly and the bobbin case.  Now all it needs is some test stitching to make sure I didn't break something.  I also need to make sure the feed dogs are properly set.  That will take some test sewing, too.

Do you have any great blogs you refer to when working on your machine?  Vintage or otherwise I'd love to know.

Vintage Revival: Model 66 - Introduction

A few weeks ago I picked up this cute little Model 66 through Craig's List.  Nothing fancy, but the perfect thing for a friend that wants a more reliable machine.  This won't be a quick clean-up as this will be the first time I'm working on electrical things.  I'm up for the challenge.

It came in the Model 56 cabinet.  A little fancier than some, but still a small cabinet.  No bench came with this one.  I'm sure the stools get lost along the way with these machines.

This one needs some care.  I'm not sure if I can get it perfect, but better will be better.

This machine dates to December 18, 1952.

Poor thing had so much dust on it.

The first step is to get the machine head out of the cabinet and onto the worktable.

Time for cleaning and rewiring and more cleaning.  This will be a fun one.

In The Mail Monday: Vintage Sewing Machine Parts

I recently placed an order with Cindy at Stitches in Time.  She is a great source for reproduction sewing machine parts for your vintage Singer and other vintage sewing machines.

I needed some bobbins for the Singer 115 that I intend to convert to a hand-crank.  The hand-cranks weren't in stock but Cindy said she would let me know when they came in.  I got a copy of her brochure/price list so now I don't have to bother her about prices for every little thing.

I used up all the bobbin winder tires I had from an order I placed on eBay months ago so I ordered some more of those.  I totally lost the bobbin case for my Singer 15-91.  I know I had it in 2008 or 2009 but I have no idea where it might be now.  I also got a replacement bobbin cover plate for my really clunky (meaning rusty and electrically dangerous) Spartan since it didn't have one when I bought it.  I had her throw in some felt pads for all of the vintage machines for good measure.  Shipping was quick and communication was excellent.

For your vintage machine parts you can reach Cindy at stitchesintime@earthlink.net.

In case you didn't hear, Sam Hunter of Hunter Design Studio is having a blog hop to promote her book.  You should totally go check it out.  Why?  Because you could win a copy of Sam's book Quilt Talk and make your own paper-pieced masterpiece!  I got my copy last month and I need to sit still long enough to make something awesome.

Becca's 10 Quilty Little Secrets

Everyone loves a challenge!  I'm not going to belabor the point, just throw some links at you and get down to my 10 Quilty Little Secrets.

I bumped into this somewhere in my travels and wanted to play along.  I think I'll be among good company.  The original post was from Amy at 13 Spools.  Hop over to the link-up for all the Quilty Little Secrets that are being shared.

1.  I no longer pre-wash my quilting cotton fabrics.  Modern fabrics are printed at a high quality and do not bleed or fade.  I don't pre-wash batiks either. 

2.  I wash my quilts after quilting in the same cycle I wash my bedding.  Warm water wash with light detergent and a cold rinse.  I follow that with a trip through my dryer.  Both machines are set to NORMAL.  I believe that quilts should be used.  If they are used they need to be washed.  Period, end of story. 

3.  I use the thread I want to use.  This means I use filament polyester, spun polyester and cotton threads.  Each in their place and sometimes I mix it up.  Restricting yourself to one thread content because it is the only "right" thread is just narrow-minded.  (I think you should step away from most threads at the chain stores, too, but that is another argument discussion.) 

4.  I sew with sewing machines from many different manufacturers.  I have Pfaffs, Singers, Tin Lizzies, Brothers, a Baby Lock, and even a Kenmore.  Machines that are modern and machines that are almost 100 years old.  I don't restrict myself to one brand and neither should you.

5.  I am a ruler junkie.  I love rulers.  I buy rulers because I can.  I have rulers I've had for months and still haven't unwrapped.  I have them, though.

6.  I put water in my iron and always have.  I'm not afraid of steam and I know how to use it.  You can say whatever you want.  I don't care.  It is how I get a nice crisp seam and that's the way I like it.

7.  I was a quilter for years before I made something with more than four half-square triangle blocks.  It took a massive quilt with over 300 of them for me to decide they don't suck all that much.  (I still have to like a bunch to make them for you.)

8.  I hate computerized quilting.  I hate how slow the machine stitches to get a good stitch when it is computer driven. Any jackass can run the computer (this is not the same as creating your own designs on the computer, that takes a skill set I do not have).  It takes someone with training and some talent to produce pretty hand-guided work.  

9.  I don't measure when I add borders.  I just sew them on and they don't wave.  Practice, baby!

10.  I don't bury threads when I quilt.  I tried it once and didn't like it.  I stack up some stitches and trim off.  That's how I did it with my sewing machine and that's how I do it with my long arm.  

Bonus secret:  I will never monetize my blog.  I'm here to talk about quilting and sewing and other fun stuff.  If I share link it is because I like the product, have used it and recommend it or I tell you why I didn't like it.  All that ad stuff is just garbage!

It took me days to write this list, remove some questionable remarks, edit it down, remove some language that some viewers might find inappropriate, edit it some more, and get around to posting it.  If you read any of these and don't understand my reasoning please leave me a comment and I'll do my best to respond.

I hope you can look at your quilting and find things that you do that are different from the "conventional way" of doing things.  You should create something that makes you happy using the techniques you are comfortable with.

Vintage Revival: Singer Spartan

My newest vintage find is this darling little Singer Spartan.

I'm in the process of cleaning her up, though she was very well cared for throughout her long life.

This is a 3/4 size machine.

While I don't have a featherweight machine to compare to, I can tell you that this machine is anything but light.  It does live up to the name of Spartan, though.

No light, no fancy scroll-work, just a beautiful black finish and an even more beautiful stitch are packed into this little package.

Overall, this machine is in great shape.

According to the gentleman I bought it from, his aunt sewed with it as recently as last year.  It was definitely well cared for.

There are some cosmetic issues, but this is the only thing that might affect function or safety.

I think these are a late addition to support the weight of the machine as the little tabs of the case broke off.

The bakelite case is chipped and the supports inside really weren't designed to hold up this machine's considerable weight for as long as they have.

No fancy scroll-work here.  Just simple functionality.

Everything worked smoothly when I went to see the machine, now that I've got some oil on all the moving bits everything just glides.

When I get the rest cleaned up and put back together, I'll share some pictures of her stitches.

I found some great information about this little machine over at Old Sewing Gear.

Thread Thursday: Bobbins, bobbins, bobbins!

Let's have a little talk about bobbins.  These small pieces of metal and plastic that make it possible for us to create a locking stitch are wonderful little things.  But, what if you don't have the right one?  I suppose, the first part of this discussion should begin with what sorts of bobbins are generally used (I don't have all the available bobbins, so this will cover some of the more common bobbins and will definitely leave many out.)

From left to right:
M-Style:  I use these in my long arms, Empress and Pfaff 18.8 (both are Tin Lizzie machines)
Class 15:  I use this in my Brother and at least one Singer
Class 66:  I use this size primarily in my many Singers; treadle, electric, old and new
L-Style:  These are actually bobbins for my Pfaff, complete with Pfaff stamped on the side.  I checked the internet and there seemed to be some confusion about these out there, so I'm glad I got the bobbins from my dealer.
L-Style pre-wound from Superior Threads is in the foreground, proudly labeled.
(If you want to learn more about bobbins, and what bobbin is right for you, I recommend clicking over to Superior Threads' and checking out their reference guide for bobbins.)

M-Style.  This is the bobbin Darling Husband refers to as "massive."  That's what the M stands for, he says.  These are used in the larger machines.  On the left is an aluminum bobbin and the right is a pre-wound from Superior Threads.  Why would anyone want a pre-wound bobbin?  Well, because at the factory they can get way more thread on that bobbin (about 50% more) than you can winding it yourself.  That means more time quilting and less time changing the bobbin.  That's a win in my book.

Next we have the Class 15.  Superior just started offering these as a pre-wound bobbin.  I haven't tried them in this size, yet.  These come in metal (with and without a bunch of holes around the sides) and plastic.  I like to stick with the metal for the older machines, but that is a preference.  I used the plastic bobbins in my Brother machine (before I got the timing out of whack and put it on the shelf).  I know these also fit in some White machines.  The metal one is from one of my vintage Singers.

The Class-66.  The metal bobbin is from my Singer Model 66 treadle and also works in my Singer Spartan.  I also have many plastic bobbins from some of my newer (2000s) Singer machines.  Many of them still have thread on them.  These can be substituted with an L-Style pre-wound, drop-in bobbin.  I recommend trying a sample with your machine, though.  You may have to adjust the bobbin tension to get a perfect stitch.

This is the L-Style bobbin for my Pfaff.  I use this bobbin in both my Creative Performance (sewing and embroidery) and my Expression 2.0 (sewing and free-motion quilting).  I have had great success with the pre-wound L-Style bobbins from Superior for both regular sewing and quilting.  I just purchased the pre-wound bobbins for use in embroidery.

Finally, here is the L-Style pre-wound bobbin in comparison to the 66 and the Pfaff.  It is lower profile than the Model 66 and the Pfaff.

Why all this business about bobbins?  Well, because I bought a sewing machine without a bobbin (sometimes Craig's List is like that) and went looking for a bobbin.  Everything I read told me that every single Kenmore ever made uses a Class-15.

For the record, this is not true.  I don't care what the internet says.  I have a Kenmore that will not take a Class-15.  It also will not take a Class-66.  I did manage to get it to make a pretty stitch with an L-Style pre-wound bobbin.  Above you can see (from the left) the bobbin case, the pre-wound, Class-66 and finally the Class-15.

I'm not giving up on finding a bobbin that will fit, but I wanted to document my findings. UPDATE: If you want to see the machine with the mystery bobbin, check out this post.

How many bobbins do you have?  I'm not going to admit to how many I have.  Let's just say I'm prepared for the zombie apocalypse.