Tool Tip Tuesday: Joining Quilt Binding

I've been asked a couple times about how I join my binding.  I'm relatively new to specific technique but I wanted to share what I've learned.  This tool tip actually uses two tools you already have in your sewing basket:  A marking tool (I use the Frixion pen from Pilot) and a small ruler (mine is an Omnigrid in the 1" by 6" size).

For this demonstration I'll be finishing the binding by machine, but this post will only cover the joining of binding ends.  This isn't a method I came up with, but it is one that I love using.  I learned this technique from my friend Veronica.  We met through a quilt swap and we also shared some tips.  I love this technique and wanted to share how I changed it just a little.

I usually use 2.5" wide strips for my binding.  This width binding finishes closer to 3/8" binding than 1/4" binding.  Make sure you know the width of your binding for this method to work.

Leaving at least a 12" tail, start in the middle of one long edge and attach your binding.  I back-stitch at the beginning of this stitching and at the end.

This binding was attached to the back of the quilt with a seam allowance just under 3/8".  I like to have room to work.  First, leave at least 12" open between the start of the binding and the end.  This will give you room to work.  You can do it with about 6" of room.  I just don't like to have to squeeze it in.  That way lies the devil (you may know it by a different name:  the seam ripper).

Remmeber when I mentioned you needed to know how wide your binding is?  This is where it figures in.  In the middle of that open space, mark one tail of your binding with two marks at 2.5" apart (adjust this measurement for your binding).  Don't do this marking all the way to one side or the other.  Keep it in the middle of that 12" of unfinished binding.

Note:  I only mark on this half of the binding.  I find it sufficient for my needs and I know the Frixion pen lines will be hidden in the binding.  Not that I have a problem with Frixion pens leaving marks.

Pull the other tail of the binding over the top and copy the marks.  I usually offset the marks just slightly (in this case to the right).  In this picture the offset is just about 1/4".  This makes my binding just a tad bit short and will pull it up a little removing any slack in the binding before it is sewn down.

Contort the quilt a little so you can pull these marked lines on the binding together (I fold the quilt so the fold is in the middle of the open binding.  This gives you room to move the ends of the binding together.).  Line up the bottom edge with the line on the binding tail from the left while matching the lines on the tail to the right with the edges of the left tail, right sides together.  That seems about as clear as mud.  I hope the picture makes it clearer.

Open up the top binding tail and pin the two pieces together.  This is where you would draw a diagonal line if you need one.  I rarely do this but that doesn't mean my binding is always perfect.  It also doesn't mean that drawing that diagonal line is a bad idea.

Then I pin-baste along that line.  I do this so I can do a fit test to make sure I got everything lined up.  Sure this takes time.  About the same amount of time as having to rip out stitches if I do it wrong.

Sew along that line, removing the pins before you get to them.

Before trimming those tails, I test again to make sure everything is right.  I would hate to have to sew on additional binding because I cut it too short.

Trim the tails off leaving a 1/4" seam allowance.

Press open or to one side, whatever is your preference.  Usually I press to one side when making my binding.  A member of the Baltimore Modern Quilt Guild made this binding and pressed open so I followed suit.

Stitch down the last 12" with at least 1" of overlap at both ends.  This is where I will leave you to press your binding towards the edge or not.  I find that finishing the binding by machine is easier if I do press.  If I was going to finish this binding by hand I would have attached it to the front, joined it in the same manner but I wouldn't press it.  I like the fullness that the binding has when you don't press before pulling it to the back.

You can see how I finish the binding by machine on the front of the quilt in this blog post.

Do you have tips or tricks for finishing binding?

Modern Feathers - the finished quilt.

After Quilts for Kids on Saturday I had some time and a couple spots I thought would be good for taking some pictures of this quilt.

This Modern Feathers quilt was created in a collaborative project by the Baltimore Modern Quilt Guild.

I was challenged by the quilting on this one but I really like the finish.  Feather Bed Quilt pattern is available from Anna Maria Horner.  The guild did not use this pattern but it is very similar.

This quilt, along with several others will be prizes at the Baltimore MQG's first Quilt Bingo event.  If you are in the Baltimore Area you should really check it out.

Tool Tip Tuesday: Sharp Waste

I've read how some people keep track of their sharps.  Those sharp tools like rotary blades and hand and machine needles that we throw away.  I had been wrapping them in masking tape and decided I needed a sturdier solution.

Tuesday's Tool Tip:  Use an old plastic container to store your sharps in until it's full.  This plastic container came with lunch meat inside.  I was done with the smoked turkey so here is my repurposed container for sharps.  Just a few quick steps to a safer way to dispose of sharp things.

For medical sharps my county recommends:  "To safely dispose of such sharps, the Department of Health recommends placing them into a widemouthed metal or heavy plastic container with a secure lid such as a coffee can."  I used my old rotary blade to cut a slit in the top of the lid.  Nothing fancy.  Just a slit big enough that I could get the rotary blade into the slot without trouble.

Even though I'll be keeping these in a container, I'm still going to wrap the blade in masking tape.  I don't like handling them very much because I know how dangerous they can be.  

Once I've got it stuck to the tape I just roll it up.  

Easy to slip into the slot.

Sure, I don't need the label, but I wanted to make sure there was no mistake about what was inside.  I taped the lid on to make sure it didn't fall off.  Now I can easily store my used rotary blades and needles.

How do you store your sharp waste?

In The Mail Monday: Fashionary in Red

I'm not sure how I first found out about Fashionary.  They created a wonderful fashion drawing notebook that is great for keeping notes for your next garment without having to draw the figure.

I bought one of these for a friend of mine  She is much more interested in garment sewing than I am.  I thought this would be a good resource for her.  I bought her one of the bright pink candy pops.

After reviewing the front matter of her copy I knew I had to buy one for myself.  Great notes on all sorts of fashion details are included in the front of the book.  If you are serious about keeping your ideas in a notebook but don't want to draw the female figure you should totally check these out (they also sell a version with the male figure).

If you know me you know I'm in love with the color red.  Thankfully, Fashionary makes a notebook in my favorite color!